Our managing editor heads north, way north, for an unforgettable autumn adventure.
This article first appeared in Traverse Northern Michigan. Find this story and more when you explore our magazine library. Want Traverse delivered to your door or inbox monthly? View our print subscription and digital subscription options.
I’ve lived in Michigan my entire life, but it took me 30 years to finally get up to the Keweenaw Peninsula. And holy smokes, I’ve been missing out. Last October, I slept in the same room as Teddy Roosevelt once did, took a fall color tour by seaplane, paddled Lake Superior and topped it all off with apple bread pudding. You’re going to want at least two full days to explore—and you’ll be excitedly plotting your return on the drive home.
This itinerary is just a starter pack. In the Keweenaw, the adventures are truly endless.
Photo by Visit Keweenaw
Day 1
Wake Up At: Laurium Manor Inn
This opulent mansion was once the home of wealthy copper baron Thomas Hoatson. The 13,000-square-foot building was rescued by Julie and Dave Sprenger, who purchased it in 1989 after it had been stripped by antique dealers and left vacant for a decade. Their careful renovation was a true labor of love, and today guests marvel at the hand-carved oak staircase, Italian-marble fireplace and hand-painted canvas walls. Tip: Book the Laurium Suite, which has a private second-story balcony complete with a porch swing and was the room Theodore Roosevelt stayed in during his 1912 presidential campaign.
Take to the Sky: Isle Royale Seaplanes
Come autumn, you can catch a seaplane for aerial fall color tours (Thursday–Sunday; Sept. 26–Oct. 13, 2024). The views during the 30-minute flight are epic—a leafy patchwork of crimson, gold and evergreen; lollygagging shadows from puffy white clouds; the endless expanse of mighty Superior. Taking off and landing on the Portage Canal is pretty cool, too.
Lunch Break: The Ambassador
Go for the views of Houghton’s Portage Canal and soaring murals of gnomes that adorn the cavernous restaurant’s ceiling and walls. Painted in the early 1900s, when “streets were of dirt, sidewalks of wood,” (so says an accompanying poem on the menu), the gnomes are having a jolly good time—and so will you.
All Aboard: Keweenaw Boat Tours
The scenery is gorgeous, and Captain Jason Swain has a wealth of local knowledge, sharing the history of the region along with tips for aurora chasers, rock hunters and sunset seekers. Jason offers several tour options, including trips to the Jacobsville Lighthouse and Superior sunset cruises.
Photo by Visit Keweenaw
Day 2
Road Trip: M-26
When it comes to scenic views, this state highway rivals its more well-known cousins M-22 and M-119. Take your time, stopping at Eagle River Falls, Eagle Harbor Lighthouse, Jacob’s Falls and the iconic Jampot Bakery, where a group of monks greet thousands of visitors each summer and fall with their homemade jams and confections. The wild thimbleberry jam is a specialty (and worth the $25 splurge) but you can also grab small treats like cashew caramel or the most massive muffins you’ve ever laid eyes upon. Turn down the nine-mile Brockway Mountain Drive for panoramic views of the peninsula and Lake Superior.
Paddle a Quiet Cove: Keweenaw Adventure Company
M-26 will drop you in Copper Harbor, the homebase of Keweenaw Adventure Company. The team here offers guided mountain biking and sea kayaking tours. I did the 2.5-hour Porter’s Island excursion, and it was one of my favorite parts of the weekend. The island is a beautiful spot for a paddle, with shallow inlets and rocky coves. Because we were making good time, our guide let us stop and explore on the island for a bit, and friends, the rock hunting was fantastic.
Dinner with a View: Harbor Haus
This fine dining restaurant sits right on the shore of Superior, offering water views to every table. You’ll often see freighters, and if you make reservations near 6 p.m. you can witness a festive dance performed on the patio welcoming home the Isle Royale Queen IV ferry as it pulls into the harbor. Say yes to warm apple bread pudding with vanilla bean ice cream and caramel sauce.
Photo by Visit Keweenaw
Photo by Dave Weidner
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