Manicured lawns are out; wild, pollinator-friendly meadows are in. Here’s how to turn your Northern Michigan yard into a pocket prairie filled with native plants.
This article first appeared in Traverse Northern Michigan. Find this story and more when you explore our magazine library. Want Traverse delivered to your door or inbox monthly? View our print subscription and digital subscription options.
Gone are the days of defending thirsty, water-guzzling lawns. These non-native yards are essentially dead zones for wildlife; and let’s not get started on the pesticides and fertilizers that can run off into local waterways.
Cue: native plants. These local grasses and flowers support an array of pollinators and insects, which in turn feed our regional birds and other critters. Landscaping with native species is no secret, but some folks may find the prospect of replacing your entire lawn a tad intimidating.
If that’s you, may we present: the pocket prairie—sweet miniature meadows filled with whimsical beauty and plants that help bees and butterflies thrive.
“Pocket prairies are areas dominantly planted with native short prairie grasses and a variety of short perennials (all under 24″ high) in clusters or drifts throughout the planting,” says Carolyn Thayer, a landscape designer based in Frankfort. “This planting can take the place of a lawn, fill a sunny area or provide a planting in tough areas along a road or drive.”
Thayer owns Designs in Bloom, a landscaping business with a focus on helping clients create habitats that come to life. She’s been landscaping professionally since 1988, became a founding member of the native plant nonprofit Plant It Wild in 2001, and in 2011, she completed the Michigan Natural Shoreline Professional Training and Certification Program.
Here, Thayer shares tips for choosing native species, intel on when to prep and plant, how to establish your prairie, and how to keep it thriving throughout the year.
Q: What are the best plants for a pocket meadow?
A: Start by selecting Michigan native plants, which were here before the logging era (pre-1850s). These plants are tough! They thrive in sandy-loamy soil and need less water once established.
I would recommend using live plants—these can be plugs in 38-cell flats, 2″–4″ size pots, or gallon-size pots. It’s best to purchase locally, and we have great native plant growers and nurseries across Northern Michigan and the Midwest. (If you decide to use seeds, that’s a different type of installation than we’re discussing here.)
Choose plants that are approximately 24″ tall or less. Next are some examples of a few of my favorites, but there are many more choices out there.
Select a dominant grass:
- Little Bluestem Grass, Schizachyrium scoparium
Add perennials (that bloom from spring to fall):
- Butterfly Weed, Asclepias tuberosa
- Lanceleaf Coreopsis, Coreopsis lanceolate
- Hairy Beardtongue, Penstemon hirsutus
- Dotted Mint or Horsemint, Monarda punctata
- Grey Goldenrod, Solidago nemoralis
- Wild Lupine, Lupinus perennis
You may also add another grass or two. For example, June-grass (Koeleria macrantha) for early spring color, or Purple Lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) for additional fall interest.
These plantings will make your space come alive; from the sound of buzzing bees and the movement of fluttering wings to the variety of colorful blooms—a feast for the eyes. Native plants create a healthy habitat that supports beneficial insects, which are the center of the food web.
Photo by Designs in Bloom
Q: When is the best time for planting?
A: You can plant a pocket prairie in spring through fall— you just need to be prepared to water for establishment. And remember to only take on whatever size project is right for you; you can always add to it. In fact, you may find yourself seeking out that next native planting sooner than you think!
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Q: What site prep do you need?
A: Clear all unwanted vegetation from the site before planting. Even one non-native plant that you don’t fully remove can take over an area quickly, and you will be battling it for years to come. An example of such vegetation on a recent project was Crownvetch, Securigera varia. The rhizome root is deep and continues to sprout even after aggressive pulling or digging; it’s almost impossible to get out once it’s entwined with a new planting.
After the site is cleared of vegetation, spread mulch about 2″ thick. Mulch will keep moisture in the soil, prevent weed seeds from germinating and add nutrients back to the soil. I use pine bark mulch on most projects. It has a natural look, light structure, it’s easy to spread, doesn’t create a “hard pan” as other mulches can, and is less messy (I don’t get as dirty). You can also use shredded, smaller leaves or another type of mulch.
Spread the mulch either before or after planting, depending on the size of the area. If it’s a large area and you’re planting mainly plugs, it’s easier to spread the mulch first and plant afterward. If you’re using a lot of one-gallon plants, you may want to mulch after, as it’s harder to keep the mulch from mixing with the soil.
Once the ground is graded, consider mulching soon after. Ground that sits bare will erode and invite unwanted plants to seed quickly. Even if you’re not ready to plant, mulch to protect the bare soil. You can come back and plant later when you’re ready.
Q: What’s the best way to feed new plants?
A: There’s no need to fertilize a pocket prairie; that will just cause the plants to push growth, become top-heavy and fall over. And be sure to match the type of soil, light and moisture to each plant’s needs. To learn more about your soil nutrients, take a soil test.
Q: How do you establish your garden?
A: You must water for establishment—if you install in the spring, water through the spring and summer. If you plant in the fall, often you can back up the planting to align with autumn rains in mid- to late-September through early November, depending on the year. Overall, you just need to make sure the plants are watered by a soaking rain, or manually water when planted. Often the fall rains and the following spring rains will allow roots to establish without watering again (unless there is an extreme drought the next year).
Each site is different and each season is different, so it’s important to carefully monitor your pocket prairie. When you water, water less often and for a longer period of time. Move mulch away and dig a couple inches down in the ground to see if there is moisture in the soil. If there is moisture, then typically it will be all set—this will promote deeper root growth.
The deep roots of the prairie grasses and perennials will seek water deep in the ground.
Q: What’s the most important maintenance for a pocket prairie?
A: Weed out invasive plants! Typically, it takes three years for plants to become established—filling the root zone and shading the ground to out-compete unwanted vegetation. Keep on this!
Cut back grasses and perennials to the ground in the spring—preferably once insects have emerged, after 50-degree days. Or alternatively, don’t cut anything back (Mother Nature doesn’t!). If you do cut back plants, make a few cuts on the stems to allow for smaller length pieces, and let them drop to the ground to create mulch. If the layer of stems you create is really thick, then gently rake and distribute them elsewhere. The goal is to mulch when the site is planted, and then use the stems and leaves that collect in the planting as future mulch—but don’t let a thick layer of leaves smother the plants.
For cutting back plants, you can use scissors, pruners or a weed whipper. If using a weed whipper, cluster perennials in smaller areas that can be hand-pruned. Note: Some perennials can be harder to weed whip than others. Butterfly weed has stringy, tough stems, and Goldenrod has thick, stiff stems.
Another tip: Learn what “baby plants” look like, so you don’t mistake them for invasive plants. The goal is for the perennials to spread and fill the planting bed.
Q: What’s the reward of planting a native lawn?
A: It’s exciting that every year more clients ask to remove or reduce the size of their lawn. Lawn grass is not native, does not thrive in our sandy/loamy soil and has shallow roots. Lawns need fertilizer and additional water to thrive, while the native plants can flourish on their own.
Remember, you are not only adding all these amazing plants to your landscape for you—you’re also establishing a habitat full of life. Happy planting!