Stretching 4,800 miles across eight states from North Dakota to Vermont, the North Country Trail is the longest in the National Trails System—and Michigan hosts the most miles of all. Avid hiker, nature geek and gifted photographer Kim Mettler shares her favorite sections of the trail through the lens of her camera, reveling in the grand views and intimate moments that call her back again and again.
This article first appeared in Traverse Northern Michigan. Find this story and more when you explore our magazine library. Want Traverse delivered to your door or inbox monthly? View our print subscription and digital subscription options.
It all started with a challenge: To tackle 100 miles within a calendar year.
Participants in the North Country Trail Hike 100 Challenge trek sections of the trail at their own pace and choose locations that best suit them. My passion is pairing my wanderlust with the lens of my camera, so photographing my journey was a natural fit. I started at a section near my Boyne City home, then pushed farther north. From a tiny sphinx moth on a wild iris to sweeping vistas of Lake Superior along Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, the trail’s grandeur enthralled me, and I couldn’t resist the allure of discovering more. So, I set out on several day trips and weekend adventures, venturing deeper into the wilderness.
Unlike other long-distance trails, the North Country Trail (NCT) is often regarded as more suitable for section hikers rather than thru hikers. Section hikers do shorter portions of the trail, allowing them to fully immerse in the scenery of each region.
Here are a few of my favorite spots:
Photo by Kim Mettler
Photo by Kim Mettler
Photo by Kim Mettler
The Jordan Valley Pathway and Warner Creek Pathway, south of Boyne City
Conveniently located a few miles from my front door in Boyne City, these two sections along the Jordan River have quickly become my go-tos. The Jordan Valley Pathway greets you with panoramas of the river valley below, filled with lush greenery stretching as far as the eye can see. Towering hardwood trees, including sugar maple and oak, create a shady canopy, while delicate spring ephemerals like trillium and lady’s slipper orchids dot the forest floor. The melody of the Jordan River provides a soothing soundtrack, and the river banks are teeming with life, from deer foraging in the distance to migrating warblers flitting through the trees with boundless energy.
The Jordan Valley Pathway is an 18.5-mile loop that overlaps the NCT for about 12 miles and is considered one of the top overnight backpacking loops in the Lower Peninsula. Warner Creek Pathway is a 3.8-mile loop through the Mackinaw State Forest, with roughly two miles overlapping the NCT. This shorter route is a popular year-round destination for hikers, snowshoers and cross-country skiers. (Bonus: Hikers in the Jordan River Valley section get to cross the 45th Parallel—the halfway point between the Equator and the North Pole.)
Nice to know: The largest tributary to Lake Charlevoix, the Jordan River was Michigan’s first designated National Wild and Scenic River. It’s also a blue-ribbon trout stream—a gem for fly fishing.
Hiking Tip: I use the Avenza Maps app for navigation. On the North Country Trail website, you can download map sections from the Avenza app or printable PDF maps, both available at no charge.
Read Next: Epic 1-Day Hike on Northern Michigan’s Jordan Valley Pathway
Photo by Kim Mettler
Dobleski Road to Kuzmick Road, near Boyne Falls
It was a gray, drizzly day when two friends and I embarked on this seven-mile section of the North Country Trail. The mist only added to the allure of the journey, and we were determined to make the most of the day we had planned. The trail here is adorned with a kaleidoscope of spring wildflowers, bravely displaying their colors. Dutchman’s breeches danced in the breeze, their white and yellow blossoms resembling miniature pantaloons, and vibrant marsh marigolds added bursts of yellow to the damp landscape. At times, the trail merged with country roads, requiring a walk alongside passing cars. The surrounding scenery of farmhouses and expansive fields provided their own charm and a contrast to the serene forest path we encountered early on. As we trudged through muddy stretches, tackled challenging hills and navigated road walking, our hearts were filled with a sense of accomplishment and a deeper appreciation for the wonders that can be unearthed on even the gloomiest of days.
Nice to know: Petoskey stones can be found in places other than Lake Michigan’s shoreline. I could not believe my eyes when I stumbled upon not one, but two Petoskey stones along this section of trail! These ancient treasures, with their distinct fossilized patterns, were like precious gems hidden among the rocks, connecting us to the geological history of the region.
Photo by Kim Mettler
Photo by Kim Mettler
Photo by Kim Mettler
Skyline Trail, Petoskey
Regularly hiking the four-mile, out-and-back section of the NCT known as the Skyline Trail near Petoskey is a thrill that never fails to captivate. The trek begins with a steep descent along numerous switchbacks through a dense forest of towering row pines, the air filled with the refreshing scent of evergreens. A short distance from the trailhead is a spur trail with an observation deck. From this vantage point, you’re rewarded with a panorama of natural wonders, as the shimmering waters of Little Traverse Bay sparkle beyond the Bear River Valley in all of its pristine glory. The Skyline Trail offers not only a physical challenge, but also an opportunity to connect with nature, leaving a lasting impression long after the hike is over. (This is where I spotted a sphinx moth on a wild iris!)
Nice to know: The Jordan Valley 45° Chapter of the North Country Trail constructed a 12×13–foot shelter in 2017 with six bunks and a deck with a partial view of the Bear River Valley. The cabin is at Mile 612.5 of the NCT but only a 0.6-mile walk from the Skyline trailhead. Use of the shelter is free but there is a two-night maximum stay.
Read Next: A Hiker’s Road Trip to Little Traverse Conservancy Preserves
Photo by Kim Mettler
Lakeview Trailhead, near Wilderness State Park
“Who, who, who, who cooks for you?? Who cooks for you all!?!?” The call of the barred owl accompanied me this afternoon at the Lakeview Trailhead, located just south of Wilderness State Park near the tip of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula. This roughly two-mile, out-and-back section was truly impressive, thanks to a fairytale ambiance. As you depart the parking lot, headed south, you’ll find yourself immersed in a dune forest, where the path gently winds through a series of moderate hills. The surrounding woodlands offer a tapestry of evergreen and hardwood trees, while the forest floor teems with ferns, intricate fungi and lush foliage. Along the way, you’ll encounter a tranquil creek and a vernal pool (and maybe even a barred owl). For an extra treat, a spur trail unveils a magnificent overlook of Sturgeon Bay, showcasing the aqua-blue waters of Lake Michigan set against the foreground of towering dunes.
Nice to know: Wilderness State Park is a designated Dark Sky Preserve, making it an excellent destination for stargazing and experiencing the wonders of the night sky away from urban light pollution.
Photo by Kim Mettler
Photo by Kim Mettler
Photo by Kim Mettler
Pictured Rocks Chapel Basin Loop, near Munising
“WOW! WOW! WOW!” The sheer excitement that my hiking companion and I experienced as we peered through an opening in the trees to the brilliant blue sky and Lake Superior shoreline was palpable. The reward for this moderate hike is some of the most specular views in the entire state of Michigan. This scenic trail winds through verdant forests, along majestic cliffs and beside the crystal-clear waters of Lake Superior, leading to awe-inspiring vistas of the famous Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, where towering sandstone cliffs painted in hues of red, orange and blue, rise dramatically from the water’s edge. On the wooded portion of the trail, a Narnia-like realm envelops you, as the forest transforms before your eyes. The brushy low-growth canopy gives way to expansive open woods, towering maple trees reaching for the sky and a tapestry of blush-colored hepatica and delicate yellow trout lilies carpeting the ground in the spring. As you traverse the loop, you’ll encounter woodland paths, creeks and hidden waterfalls. The hike begins and ends at the Chapel trailhead parking lot, 14 miles east of Munising. The entire loop is 10.4 miles over generally level terrain, making it either a long day hike or an easy overnight outing, with 4.7 miles overlapping the North Country Trail along the lakeshore.
Nice to know: Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and its glorious 73,000 acres are managed by the National Park Service. In 1966, it was the first of the country’s three national lakeshores to be established.
Read Next: Best Things to Do & See at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore
Photo by Kim Mettler
Presque Isle River Waterfalls Loop, Porcupine Mountains
Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, located along the northwest coast of the Upper Peninsula, is hands-down one of my favorite places to hike in Michigan, and it includes 23 miles of NCT terrain. I first fell in love with “The Porkies” during a two-week artist residency when I lived in a secluded cabin near the heart of the park. My lodging was deep in the woods under a dark canopy of trees, so I found myself in search of open sky each day. This 2.3- mile loop is on the western edge of the park, with approximately one mile overlapping the NCT. It begins and ends near where the mouth of the Presque Isle River meets Lake Superior. There, a timber suspension bridge grants a vantage point to photograph kettle formations, sculpted by the swift current of the river. The east and west trails are both nicely groomed but can be challenging at times when nature’s artistry reveals itself in the form of tree roots that shape the trail into grand staircases. Each path meanders through cedar and hardwood forests to follow the banks of the river and provide spectacular views of three waterfalls: Manabezho Falls, Manido Falls and Nawadaha Falls.
Nice to know: The Porcupine Mountains were named by the native Ojibwe people because their silhouette had the shape of a crouching porcupine. It’s Michigan’s largest state park, covering 60,000 acres, of which nearly 35,000 acres are old-growth forest, accounting for one of the largest remaining tracts in North America.
Kim Mettler, owner of Michigan Barefoot Memories, is a nationally published lifestyle, portrait and commercial photographer and writer.